Sword Photography
- Model/Actress: Nicole Leigh Jones
- Copyright: © Photographer Gayla Partridge
Nicole Leigh Jones as Victoria Celestine. Photoshoot for the film Shroud (2013) - Independent Gothic Western.
Source: © Jetrefilm Entertainment LLC
I ALWAYS THOUGHT THE HDR EFFECT WAS HARD BUT IT’S ACTUALLY LIKE A 5 STEP THING BESIDES DUPLICATING AND FLATTENING SHIT HOLY FUCK I CAN DO IT. I’M SO EXCITED WOW THAT’S LOVELY and I have to share because no one every taught me this.
- Open your picture.
- Duplicate layer (Ctrl+J)
- Overlay that shit 50%
- Flatten image (Ctrl+E)
- Duplicate that one layer that you have now (Ctrl+J)
- Desaturate (Shift+Ctrl+U)
- Invert (Ctrl+I)
- Gaussian Blur it to 40
- Now overlay that B&W Blurred image
- Duplicate and sharpen if necessary
- AMAZEMENT WOW HOLY SHIT
some of excentrique’s autumn ‘11 collection; gymnasium.
More tips:
- The closest I could find on Amazon to the watercolour set I use is the Sakura brand of Koi Assorted WaterColours Field Set.
- Just use any old toothbrush. I used to use the ones that my dentist would give me after a visit, just because those were kind of cheap and I wouldn’t actually use them anyways.
- I use acrylic for flicking and highlights because watercolour-whites tend to fade when they dry.
- Also, remember to keep your hands clean, because nothing’s worse than smudging graphite into your watercolours and then unable to get it out.
- Try to avoid black and white when possible. They tend to dull the colours and it loses that watercolouring lustre.
Since I started watercolouring again for my daily sketches, I’ve gotten a lot of asks/dA notes on if I could give a tutorial on watercolouring and also more specific questions that overlapped each other, so I decided to do a semi guide/tips/answering thing.
I actually started watercolouring before I went into digital medium, so I have a bit of personal experience, but I am essentially self-taught when it comes to watercolouring since there weren’t a lot of watercolour tutorials online back then to begin with, so I cannot promise that these are the absolute correct way of doing things.
Hope it helps anyways :)
Okay so I followed this video about foreshortening and…
Sycra. I love you so much for making this video.
Swedish Naval Officer’s Sword
- Bears the gold cypher of Charles XV
- Dated: circa 1850
- Measurements: Length 93.5 Cm / 36.8 inches
The gilt-bronze hilt of Naval pattern, with ivory grip mounted on either side with gold crowned ciphers of Charles XV, fitted with German damascus steel blade of pipe-back form with etched panels to either side, one inscribed FÄDERNESLANDET under the Royal Arms of Sweden, the reverse inscribed KONUNGEN. Retaining its original patent leather scabbard with gilt-bronze mounts, the top bearing the maker’s name AP HULTQUIST and the address REGERINGSGATAN, 54, STOCKHOLM.
Source & Copyright: Peter Finer
Is that a Patronus?
Surnames Master Post.
Surnames are just as important as given names. So, I compiled a list of the websites I use to find my surnames.
- English Surnames
- Dutch Surnames
- Spanish Surnames
- Scottish Surnames
- German Surnames
- Italian Surnames
- Irish Surnames
- French Surnames
- Scandinavian Surnames
- Welsh Surnames
- Jewish Surnames
- Surnames By Ethnicity
- Most Common Surnames in the USA
- Most Common Surnames in Great Britan
- Most Common Surnames in Asia
THANK YOU
Battle-axe
- Dated: circa 1800
- Culture: India
- Medium: iron and gold damascening
- Measurements: H: 55; L: 13.1 cm
The short, elegant battle-axe (tabar-i-zin) comes from the Persian region, where it was already part of a horseman’s equipment in the early Islamic period. Not all battle-axes were velvet-clad parade weapons like this one, however as a passage from Firdawsi Shah-nama (Book of Kings) shows, a battle-ax was above all a serious weapon.
Source: © The David Collection
The Making Of Orcrist
The most iconic prop in The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey is arguably Orcrist, “Biter”, “The Goblin Cleaver”. The sword found by Thorin Oakenshield in the hoard of the troll brothers William, Tom and Bert.
Orcrist was launched recently as the fifth sword in Weta’s Master Swordsmith’s Collection and is available to order.
The sword and some of its design history features in The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, Chronicles: Art and Design, but we wanted to delve deeper. We therefore looked up concept designer Paul Tobin and Master Swordsmith Peter Lyon for a chat about how the sword was designed and made.
A commonly asked question on Facebook and various forums has been if the sword has been inspired by any particular type of sword.
Paul Tobin explains: “In terms of a classification of weapon, it’s probably closest to a falchion. However, the main reason for the blade shape is the need for a strong visual weight as it needs to look impressive in the hands of a bulky and potentially scaled down dwarf.
“If you take a sword like Glamdring, which is quite a slender blade, and while it looks fantastic in the hands of the tall slender wizard Gandalf, when you place it in the hands of a dwarf, it’s begins to look a bit like a rapier or large letter opener.”
“Although some argue Orcrist is the brother of Glamdring, this doesn’t necessarily mean they have to look the same, only that they perhaps are made by the same smith. Tolkien never actually described any swords in any technical detail, so a lot of interpretation has to be done”, Peter Lyon adds.
“So we started looking at Sting”, Paul continues. “There you have a wider blade and for the second round of designs, I drew heavily on that blade shape.”
“We needed a heavy blade with a good on-screen presence and although Orcrist is a single-edged blade, there are lots of similarities, like the hand guard - very similar to Sting.”
“Something there’s much discussion about online is the dragon’s tooth handle”, Peter interjects. “People are saying that there is no record in Tolkien’s work of a dragon being slain in earlier ages and therefore no way anyone could have a dragon’s tooth for a handle. But I guess you don’t actually have to kill a dragon to get hold of a tooth. Perhaps it was knocked out in battle and made its way to a smithy in Gondolin.”
Read the rest of the article here
Source: Weta NZ
Speaking of different body shapes. These are all basically peak human bodies.
How come 99% of them don’t conform to what the entertainment industry tells us is the perfect body?
This is a FABULOUS set of body refs. So glad this came back across my dash so I could reblog it here :D
These images are from a book by Howard Schatz of various Olympic athletes, which was titled “Athlete.” You can buy the book [here]. Also, have some more photos from it:
Never not reblogging this.
Awesome!
I love this so much. To me, these are the refs you should be using when doing female warriors in particular. And just my god so much variety!!!! I LOVE IT.
Making a ruffly [cupcake shaped] petticoat + skirt
Circle skirt tutorial — Ruffle/Gathering Tutorial & Info
^important stuff
[almost] finished project!
-This will not work with very flimsy materials (such as chiffon, jersey, costume satin etc.) you need fabric with at least some natural stiffness
-These get pretty heavy so they should be made with a fitted waistband and a zipper + snap closure. Elastics will fall down on you D:
-This requires making at least 25 yards or ruffles, which means over 150 yards of hemming so…uh…set some time aside for making this.
-If you have a question about this, I’d be happy to answer, but for the love of god don’t ask it on anon.
Keep in mind that circle skirts have really long hems, and when laid flat are, quite literally, a circle. This will probably equate to being more work and volume then you want.
For this I ended up cutting a half circle skirt, three inches shorter then I wanted my finished petti/skirt to be. This is a BASE, it will not be seen, and should be made from a somewhat sturdy material that will not stretch or tear.
I cut strips of a heavy tulle netting (the scratchy awful type, not the pretty flimsy stuff used on princess skirts) until I had ten four inch by one yd strips. These get sewn together until I have one long strip, then ruffles get sewn onto the bottom.
The strip gets folded in half (wrong sides together) and sewn across the seam where the ruffles were attached.
Then the tulle gets gathered down to the size of my skirt hem and sewn into place. It will look like this.
Then repeat but with longer tulle! This time I used eight inch strips which were obviously sewn four inches above my four inch layer.
Now you have a lovely A-line petticoat that just needs a zipper…but that’s not what we’re making here. We want a cupcake shaped petti!
So that requires one more layer that starts from your waist. Measure from the waist of your skirt to where the tulle ends and add a seam allowance for ruffles. For the length, multiply your waist measurement by four.
Add the ruffle, and then sew something over the seam to hide fraying. In this case I used really cheap lace.
Then gather that down and sew it into place.
Now the ruffles should lay somewhat evenly but they are kind of all over the place.
you can fix that by taking a very large needle and sewing through all the layers of tulle until they are compacted down a bit
And then you *can* sew a hoop into the petti so it will never deflate! All that really requires is hand sewing hooping wire on which isn’t very complicated at all.
Uhmm and then the overskirt is just gathered circle skirts + a ruffle!
I think adding a waistband and zipper is pretty straight forward so i’ll leave that to you.
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NEW RUFFLY MASTERPIECE!
More info on how the skirt part was made will be up here soon.
C I R C L E T S (x)
I require all of the bridesmaids and groomsmen at my wedding to wear circlets.
No you have no choice. You will be elves and you will like it.
I second that about my own wedding, and also request that we bring these AND cloaks into regular fashion. If all the fandom members just start wearing them, it won’t be that weird right?
How to Make Your Art Look Nice: Contrast by Trotroy
I suddenly had an urge to make a tutorial. Here’s the one I did for my dA. NOW FORMATTED FOR TUMBLR.
HUE
